Into Africa

After many months of planning, researching, mailing documents and asking many questions I was finally ready to begin packing for my whirlwind tour of East Africa.  My guide, Roger Dery of Spectral Gems, had recommended that we pack light enough to take a carry on only since he has had issues with losing luggage in the past.  I had already spent two weeks laying out all the necessary things (protein bars, water filter, bug spray) and then spent another week reducing the pile by 50 % (no to the mosquito net, the third pair of shoes and six skeins of yarn)  My traveling companion from Minneapolis was Steve Wallner, a gem faceter.  We had met earlier to book our flights together and from that brief introduction, I knew his great sense of humor was going to be a real asset on this trip.  We flew into the busy Amsterdam airport and met up with the others that were joining us.  Peter Torraca is a graduate gemologist and faceter from NY, Kim and Frank Yanke own a retail jewelry store in Michigan and Roger that had organized the group.  He has been to the African continent many times sourcing the rough that he cuts and has many established relationships that would allow us to buy from the best and safest sources.  I knew his detailed itineraries and deep experience gave our group a distinct advantage. After brief introductions, we boarded the plane for a 9 hour flight to Arusha, Tanzania.

What makes worth?

There are those that believe that the human struggle and sacrifice of the miners is what adds to the great value of the gem, those that give their flesh for the flash.  They sell us that it is worth that much more because of that journey.  Yes, I saw it, they do give what they have in brute force but that it is not what makes the beauty or the rarity or the sacred vibrancy that brings us to the gems….the miners, the brokers, the cutters, the designers, the customers who love the jewelry…we are all a part of the whole.  I will not believe that any one of us in that circle is not connected with the other. We all contribute and benefit to the process.   I have seen the faces of each and they share a passion.  The miners dig with the hope to find, the brokers bring them to the audience that waits for them, the cutters take what is given and shape it to a new life, the designers build the symbols that mean everything  and nothing.  And last but really first- the customer.  These are the people who give what they work so very hard to earn to be a part of the circle.  No part is more or less than the other and each is a part of the whole that brings these things to our eyes.

Stuck as a rock in a hard place

 

A beautiful peice of Spessartite Garnet as seen by the light of the Indian Ocean

Ive been back from Africa for a month, and today I am going to finally begin to post about my experiences. 

I have been stuck, and after much thought I realized what has stymied me. 

My intent of this trip was not only to shorten the supply chain of colored gemstones by sourcing the rough myself, but also to satisfy my personal hearts desire. 

I wanted to talk to the miners about their work-are they profiting fairly and are they treated well?

I wanted to witness the journey of the rough gemstone as it emerged from the earth all the way to its new home in my custom jewelry. 

I wanted to contribute to this transparency and know that I have not contributed to the illegal, immoral, and horrific activity that can be funded by the revenues from these rare resources.

I still want all these things, but this African adventure has brought up many more questions than were answered.  I was feeling uneasy about sharing my experiences and opinions; I felt I did not have all the answers; I got stuck.

I’ve come to the conclusion that the value of my experience can’t be based on simply learning facts about the sustainability of gem mining and fair trade wages alone. I hope that it can be the catalyst for deeper questions regarding the ethics of the gemstone industry.  To tickle us into wanting to know more about where the beauty comes from and how it gets to us.

I will begin a day by day summary that will include: an interview with Shamsa Diwani-the secretary general of the Tanzania Women Miners Association, a visit to an artist’s colony that employs some of Tanzania’s most unemployable, and a full detail of time I spent in the bush at the mine sites.

Back in the USA, you dont know how lucky you are!

Sitting here in the comfort of a friends living room watching the Packers skool the Bears, I find it hard to stop thinking of Africa. In the next few days I will post my daily notes detailing our trip activity but for now I will leave you with the thought that has occupied my thoughts since I arrived in Arusha…I have so much to be grateful for.

Lily has found out I am leaving in 10 days

I am not sure how she knows or what she knows but she knows.  She shadowed me as I layed out all my travel clothes and stalked me as I ran between rooms gathering all the mini 2 ounce things that will make me more comfortable (DEET bug dope, antibacterial hand sanitizer, nasal spray) and did that doggie style head thing that meant she was intriqued yet confused.  I didnt yell when I tripped over her for the second time but she got the message that she was in the way and let out a huge sad sigh…and layed down…but never took her eyes off me.

She knows.  I am going very far away and she is not coming with me this time.

Please follow postings from my travels to Tanzania and Kenya as I learn about gemstone mining, buy rough gems, talk to the local miners and tell you everything I can about the hope for sustainability and fair trade in the gemstone world.  Visit my facebook page at the link below and click ‘like’ and I will let you in on all the adventures.  Then on my return I will post to this blog and schedule the post trip talks, slide shows and gemstone events that will be held at my store in NE Minneapolis.

T Lee Fine Designer Jewelry  

Day 77 – The Equation

October 24,2010

 I dont read many magazines but GOOD magazine is one of my favorites that I read cover to cover. Its dedicated to social causes and it celebrates the individuals, businesses, and non-profits who push the world forward.  Included in the last publication was a pull-out flyer for TOMS Shoes detailing their 2010 giving report.  For those of you not familiar with TOMS, they give a pair of new shoes to a child in need for every pair they sell, their motto: One for One.  1,000,000 pairs of shoes have been given away in 4 years.  The Giving Report detailed why they give, where they give, where they’re made…but why they give came down to an amazingly simple equation.

SHOES->HEALTH->EDUCATION->OPPORTUNITY

T’s TOMS

 

 Wow.  A little act can be the beginning of huge change and simple actions can trigger big results.  If TOMS can find the equation that equals opportunity through shoes, then maybe I can discover a similar path to socially responsible gemstone mining that leads to the improvement of entire communities.  I havent bought new shoes for nearly two years but today            I bought new shoes.

ps-dont forget to hit ‘subscribe’ if you want to be in on my latest rant

81 Days – Circle Back to the Beauty

October 22, 2010

3.75 ct Chrome Tourmaline cut by Roger Dery of Spectral Gems, Inc.

This morning I was talking about the trip….no really?… to my store manager Sue.  I was literally bubbling over with excitement over a new website that I found called ‘Jewelers that Care’ and a new supplier for conflict free diamonds. 

Me : “…transparent earth friendly practices…ethical human rights practices…fairtrade,fairmined,fair…pant,pant,breathe,whew”

Sue : “Ya, but T, what about the beauty, can we talk about the beauty?  The way she could not take her eyes off that gemstone, the excitement of what we are looking at, why people come to us to find these things…what about that?”

The beauty is what draws us all together in pursuit of this rare thing. But to be brought to the surface of our attention in a way that has caused no harm; this makes the beauty immeasurable.

Fuschia Sapphire 3.6ct cut by Roger Dery of Spectral Gems

Booked! 82 days till Kwaheri!

October 21,2010

Its official, at least with the airline, Im booked on a flight to Africa leaving January 10th and arriving in Kilimanjaro, Tanzania on January 11th.  They actually have a seat saved for me and an expectation that I will be there to fill it.  At 1450.00 US they may not care, but they took the cash anyway.

Suddenly my thoughts and feelings about this trip have shifted from an ambitious exploration of things I want to witness firsthand and report to the reality of a schedule with a timeframe.  I have 82 days to get it together.  ‘To Do’ list to follow…

…and Matokeo ya Utafutaji kwa.

What I Will Be Doing in Africa

image by istockphoto.com

I want to see the mines.  I want to see the miners.  I want to blog to you all every day about the people and their lives and how the beauty they bring out of the earth affects them.  I want to tell you about their children, their aging parents and their daily life.  I want to find the very good news and tell you about it.  I want to look straight into the eyes of the things that could be better and tell you about that as well. 

I will be talking, talking, talking.  No big surprise there.  I will talk to anyone that will talk back to me and probably talk to many that won’t.  I even plan to learn some Swahili so I can at least open the conversation in the native tongue.  “Please tell me where the flush toilets are”  That ought to get a laugh out of the locals.

Over the next few months, I hope to bring up some interesting food for thought on the subject of sustainability in gemstone mining and fair trade wages to the miners.  Please leave me any comments that you may be pondering.

Hepatitis, meningitis, tetanus and polio

image by netcore.ca

October 20, 2010

…in two arms, in one day.  And I still need more because apparently I may be bitten, drink, eat, breath or rub up against something infectious.  I’ve never been terribly risk-averse but.  Add the cost of all these vaccines and it may equal my airfare…so I’ll get the biggies and practice common sense to avoid the rest. Which brings us to…

What I Wont Be Doing in Africa

I think I can skip the rabies vaccine since I don’t plan to do any cave exploring or get within biting distance of any African animals. I won’t be swimming so I don’t need the schistosomiasis shot.  Hepatitis B is only recommended for travelers with the possibility of acupuncture, dental work or tattooing. Tricky… two of three are activities that I have definitely participated in but I will exercise restraint and save them for when I’m home.